What Is Impatiens Downy Mildew?

Many people may have already heard about the disease that is attacking one of New England’s favorite plants, the impatiens. Symptoms usually begin with slight discoloration, mainly yellowing or whitening of normally green plant tissue. This will become completely yellow over time. Some varieties will have subtle gray markings on the upper leaf surface as well. A white “downy-like” growth may be present on the underside of primarily yellow leaves, these are known as airborne spores, and can also be found on the underside of green leaves.

As the disease progresses, the leaves will drop prematurely leaving the plants bare with leafless stems. Research has shown no evidence of seed-borne transmission at this time

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There are two types of spores that can be linked to transmission of the disease from one plant to another. One type of spore can be found on the undersides of infected leaves and will spread the disease by blowing in the wind or by water splash. The other type of spore is produced inside the infected stems. These spores are released into the soil from infected plant debris where they can survive and potentially initiate new infections on impatiens planted in the same garden beds for many years. It is not known how long these spores will survive in the soil.

This disease affects garden impatiens of all varieties, except the New Guinea impatiens. Development and expression of impatiens downy mildew is highly influenced by the weather. Wet foliage, cool temperatures (especially at night) and moist air are ideal for the disease to develop. Disease tends to be worse in locations where leaves stay wet for extended periods of time, in very dense beds, and beds receiving overhead sprinkler irrigation because the foliage does not dry quickly. Impatiens with downy mildew can be spread short distances by water splashing from infected plants and greater distances by wind-borne spores from infected plants. 

Once you know you have infected soil your best option for now may be to cycle in different plant alternatives. If you have any questions, please let us know!

Spring Lawn Damage-Snow Mold

Although your lawn should be recovered by now below is a description and picture of snow mold which we saw a lot of this spring. If your lawn still hasn’t recovered follow some of the tips below. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask us. 

If you noticed a lot of circular gray, tan or white patches that varied from a few inches to a few feet in diameter once the snow cleared this spring, snow mold is what you were most likely seeing. These patches are blighted and dead turf caused by cold-loving fungi that cause snow mold. There are two different kinds of snow molds, gray and pink, that are most common in this area that you may have been seeing. Snow mold’s like these occur and cause more damage when there is       prolonged snow cover of 3 or more months and wet conditions. Some lawns appeared to suffer from a lot of snow mold while others only had isolated patches.

With the warmer weather here you should be starting to see it disappear but you can help it go away by lightly raking the damaged areas to increase air circulation and promote light penetration, this will promote new shoot growth and recovery. A light to moderate nitrogen application will also help the recovery. Severely damaged areas may require reseeding.

3 Ways to Reuse Fall Leaves

1. Compost them - Leaves are a very nice additive to your compost bin and help in making excellent compost. They can be put in whole or shredded which can be done by shredding them with a mulching mower. Mulched leaves will decompose much faster and will have your compost ready much quicker.  They will need to be put in a compost bin with other ingredients to break down properly; you can add non-protein foods and also a little water to this mix as well. You will also have to turn over the pile on a regular basis by either using a shovel or turning the compost bin handle depending on what you are using for a bin. Once thorough decomposition is achieved it will still have to be housed in a bin to protect it from elements that would rob it of its hard earned nutrients.

2. Mulch them in to your lawn - If you stay on top of your leaves throughout the fall and you have a mulching mower you can continue to mulch them in to the ground. This is certainly more time consuming since you have to stay on top of the leaves as they fall but the benefits make the time worth it. Studies have proven that mulching your leaves into your lawn increases microbial activity and helps with water penetration. However, if you let the leaves get too far ahead of you there will be too many to mulch. Once the leaves aren't going away with mowing they have become too heavy and should be removed. Don't let dense mulched or full leaves stay on your lawn or they will likely damage it.

3. Use them as mulch - Save money next spring and let the fall leaves do some work in your gardens. Using leaves as mulch is great for the simple fact that they are free and also give a lot of nutrients to the soil as they decompose. They also deter weed germination and create a buffer for the soil to keep it warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. Leaves used for mulch are typically used in vegetable gardens and other similar gardens. They can be used as mulch in any setting but typically due to aesthetics and neatness they are not used as broad mulch around foundation plantings and in flower gardens.

Planting Bulbs

Bulbs should be planted when the ground is cool, usually around the first frost when the temperature is between 40 to 50 degrees and about six weeks before the ground freezes.

Bulbs can be stored longer as long as they are kept in a cool, damp place. Make sure they end up in the garden though, they will not last until next season. Also, there is no way to tell the difference between the colors, so keep an eye on labels when arranging them in your garden. Bulbs don’t like to be wet, so be aware of where they are planted and make sure they have good drainage. Try to avoid any place where water can collect, such as the bottom of a hill. Also, when deciding where to plant your bulbs it’s good to keep in mind that they like the sun. 

The biggest thing you need to know: plant the pointy side up! The pointed end should be obvious on most bulbs. Either way, most bulbs flowers find it’s way to the top. Bigger bulbs should be planted about 8 inches deep while smaller bulbs should be about 5 inches. Fertilizer isn’t necessary for first year bulbs to grow.  For bulbs that are coming up for their second year, spread a natural or organic fertilizer, such as compost or manure.

Just remember to plant bulbs in clusters. Try planting shorter bulbs in front of taller ones and experiment with a variety of colors. Use your imagination and be creative! They are guaranteed to be a beautiful spring display!

Dividing Perennials

Can’t tell where your daylilies end and your neighbor’s begin? Fall is a great time to begin dividing the perennials in your garden.  If you find your plants are outgrowing your space this is a great time to spread their beauty in a space where they belong.  Any plant that has grown over it’s allotted space is a good candidate for division. 

Perennials will grow in widening clumps; after several seasons of growth you may find that your original plant has now tripled in size. After several seasons of growing the centers of the plant begin to die out and soon your full plant has turned into a ring of growth.

If you plan on dividing your perennials, the first thing you can do to help this transition is to feed it plenty of water, preferably the day before it will be divided. Disrupting the root system can increase the risk of dehydration to the plant. Watering beforehand insures the roots are watered and well fed. Also, having the new location ready is best for the plant. Having little transition time is beneficial for the root system. The hot sun and a good breeze could dry the roots quickly. 

With a shovel or pitch fork divide the plant, including the roots (you will hear the roots breaking).  Transfer the new perennial to its allotted location. Make sure to treat this new plant as a seedling, giving it plenty of water and keeping it well watered until new growth appears. 

Perennials will continue to grow in clumps. Keep them healthy and looking good by dividing them when necessary. When you run out of room in your own garden you can offer them to a friend! As always, if you have any questions please let us know. Enjoy!

Now is the Time for Overseeding

There are many different factors that can cause damage to your lawn. July was the one of the hottest months in history. That combined with a lack of rain, put many lawns under drought and heat stress.

Other factors such as insects, grubs, and disease have also caused some lawns further stress. If your lawn has not started to recover with the recent favorable weather temperatures and rain you may want to consider overseeding. The end of August through September is the best time for seeding. There are many key factors to consider when seeding such as timing, proper seed selection, watering, fertilization, liming, and many more. 

Whether you choose to do this yourself or need guidance or assistance, your window of time is closing to get that seed down and your lawn thick and green again. As always, feel free to call or email with any lawn care concerns! If you have any questions, we will be happy to assist you!

The Importance of Aeration

It’s amazing what a little fresh air can do!  Autumn is approaching with a new start for a healthy, lavish lawn.  Now is the best time to prepare your lawn for next spring’s growth. 

This is why it’s critical to stress the significance of aeration. Why is it important and how can it help your lawn? For grass to grow in the best conditions it needs to breathe. Oxygen needs to be able to reach the root system. More importantly, moisture and nutrients need to reach these roots through the soil. 

By aerating your lawn, it is allowing air and water to enter the soil to feed the root system and encourage growth. Aerating breaks up the soil and allows the roots to create a stronger and deeper root network. The deeper the network, the easier it is for the grass to absorb water, which is crucial during those hot summer days. 

When your lawn goes long periods without aeration or deep dethatching the thatch layer builds up. Once this layer becomes too thick it limits both water and nutrients from reaching the root zone. It also creates the perfect environment for both insects and disease to find a place to camp out. Once the thatch layer becomes too thick and problems are evident on the surface it can be too late. Aeration along with proper mowing and fertilization can help prevent this from happening.

The aerating process is completed with special equipment that punctures the soil with hollow tines, removing small plugs of soil from the ground. This creates the designed ability for air and water to reach further down the soil and feed the roots and make way for growth.

Fall is the best time to aerate your lawn, so help your grass be healthy for next year’s season!