3 Ways to Reuse Fall Leaves

1. Compost them - Leaves are a very nice additive to your compost bin and help in making excellent compost. They can be put in whole or shredded which can be done by shredding them with a mulching mower. Mulched leaves will decompose much faster and will have your compost ready much quicker.  They will need to be put in a compost bin with other ingredients to break down properly; you can add non-protein foods and also a little water to this mix as well. You will also have to turn over the pile on a regular basis by either using a shovel or turning the compost bin handle depending on what you are using for a bin. Once thorough decomposition is achieved it will still have to be housed in a bin to protect it from elements that would rob it of its hard earned nutrients.

2. Mulch them in to your lawn - If you stay on top of your leaves throughout the fall and you have a mulching mower you can continue to mulch them in to the ground. This is certainly more time consuming since you have to stay on top of the leaves as they fall but the benefits make the time worth it. Studies have proven that mulching your leaves into your lawn increases microbial activity and helps with water penetration. However, if you let the leaves get too far ahead of you there will be too many to mulch. Once the leaves aren't going away with mowing they have become too heavy and should be removed. Don't let dense mulched or full leaves stay on your lawn or they will likely damage it.

3. Use them as mulch - Save money next spring and let the fall leaves do some work in your gardens. Using leaves as mulch is great for the simple fact that they are free and also give a lot of nutrients to the soil as they decompose. They also deter weed germination and create a buffer for the soil to keep it warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. Leaves used for mulch are typically used in vegetable gardens and other similar gardens. They can be used as mulch in any setting but typically due to aesthetics and neatness they are not used as broad mulch around foundation plantings and in flower gardens.

Planting Bulbs

Bulbs should be planted when the ground is cool, usually around the first frost when the temperature is between 40 to 50 degrees and about six weeks before the ground freezes.

Bulbs can be stored longer as long as they are kept in a cool, damp place. Make sure they end up in the garden though, they will not last until next season. Also, there is no way to tell the difference between the colors, so keep an eye on labels when arranging them in your garden. Bulbs don’t like to be wet, so be aware of where they are planted and make sure they have good drainage. Try to avoid any place where water can collect, such as the bottom of a hill. Also, when deciding where to plant your bulbs it’s good to keep in mind that they like the sun. 

The biggest thing you need to know: plant the pointy side up! The pointed end should be obvious on most bulbs. Either way, most bulbs flowers find it’s way to the top. Bigger bulbs should be planted about 8 inches deep while smaller bulbs should be about 5 inches. Fertilizer isn’t necessary for first year bulbs to grow.  For bulbs that are coming up for their second year, spread a natural or organic fertilizer, such as compost or manure.

Just remember to plant bulbs in clusters. Try planting shorter bulbs in front of taller ones and experiment with a variety of colors. Use your imagination and be creative! They are guaranteed to be a beautiful spring display!

Dividing Perennials

Can’t tell where your daylilies end and your neighbor’s begin? Fall is a great time to begin dividing the perennials in your garden.  If you find your plants are outgrowing your space this is a great time to spread their beauty in a space where they belong.  Any plant that has grown over it’s allotted space is a good candidate for division. 

Perennials will grow in widening clumps; after several seasons of growth you may find that your original plant has now tripled in size. After several seasons of growing the centers of the plant begin to die out and soon your full plant has turned into a ring of growth.

If you plan on dividing your perennials, the first thing you can do to help this transition is to feed it plenty of water, preferably the day before it will be divided. Disrupting the root system can increase the risk of dehydration to the plant. Watering beforehand insures the roots are watered and well fed. Also, having the new location ready is best for the plant. Having little transition time is beneficial for the root system. The hot sun and a good breeze could dry the roots quickly. 

With a shovel or pitch fork divide the plant, including the roots (you will hear the roots breaking).  Transfer the new perennial to its allotted location. Make sure to treat this new plant as a seedling, giving it plenty of water and keeping it well watered until new growth appears. 

Perennials will continue to grow in clumps. Keep them healthy and looking good by dividing them when necessary. When you run out of room in your own garden you can offer them to a friend! As always, if you have any questions please let us know. Enjoy!

Now is the Time for Overseeding

There are many different factors that can cause damage to your lawn. July was the one of the hottest months in history. That combined with a lack of rain, put many lawns under drought and heat stress.

Other factors such as insects, grubs, and disease have also caused some lawns further stress. If your lawn has not started to recover with the recent favorable weather temperatures and rain you may want to consider overseeding. The end of August through September is the best time for seeding. There are many key factors to consider when seeding such as timing, proper seed selection, watering, fertilization, liming, and many more. 

Whether you choose to do this yourself or need guidance or assistance, your window of time is closing to get that seed down and your lawn thick and green again. As always, feel free to call or email with any lawn care concerns! If you have any questions, we will be happy to assist you!

The Importance of Aeration

It’s amazing what a little fresh air can do!  Autumn is approaching with a new start for a healthy, lavish lawn.  Now is the best time to prepare your lawn for next spring’s growth. 

This is why it’s critical to stress the significance of aeration. Why is it important and how can it help your lawn? For grass to grow in the best conditions it needs to breathe. Oxygen needs to be able to reach the root system. More importantly, moisture and nutrients need to reach these roots through the soil. 

By aerating your lawn, it is allowing air and water to enter the soil to feed the root system and encourage growth. Aerating breaks up the soil and allows the roots to create a stronger and deeper root network. The deeper the network, the easier it is for the grass to absorb water, which is crucial during those hot summer days. 

When your lawn goes long periods without aeration or deep dethatching the thatch layer builds up. Once this layer becomes too thick it limits both water and nutrients from reaching the root zone. It also creates the perfect environment for both insects and disease to find a place to camp out. Once the thatch layer becomes too thick and problems are evident on the surface it can be too late. Aeration along with proper mowing and fertilization can help prevent this from happening.

The aerating process is completed with special equipment that punctures the soil with hollow tines, removing small plugs of soil from the ground. This creates the designed ability for air and water to reach further down the soil and feed the roots and make way for growth.

Fall is the best time to aerate your lawn, so help your grass be healthy for next year’s season!

 

8 Tips for Garden Maintenance

1. Weed Patrol: As you stroll around your garden take the time to pick a few weeds here and there. At this time lookout for problem areas that you can focus on when you have more time. This will cut down on the time you spend weeding in the future as well.

2. Flower Maintenance: Make sure to remove faded, spent blooms and cut down faded foliage of plants that die off in the heat. Also remove any diseased foliage from the garden and dispose of it.

3. Water Wisely: Since most gardens have many types of plants, you should first start by figuring out what each of the plants need for water. Water slowly and deeply in spring months to expand root systems and are able to reach more water.  When the hot days do occur, make sure to be watering based on plant needs. This may mean daily, especially for annuals or anything newly planted.

4. Pest & Disease Patrol: Keep an eye out for signs of disease and insect damage. Being able to spot these problems early can make a huge difference in being able to control pests and diseases before they have a chance to cause major destruction.

5. Pest & Disease Control: If you find that you do have a pest or disease problem, it is important to correctly identify the cause so you can choose the right course of action.

6. Soil Sample: Remember to have your soil tested every few years. This will give you an idea on nutrient needs and soil pH. Different plants will have different needs.

7. Plan Ahead: Be ready and know what bulbs you want to plant. This is also a good time to add any perennials as well.

8. Enjoy: Use these simple tips to help enjoy your garden more!

Summer Annual Bulbs

Are you looking to add some new colors and textures to your gardens this year? Check out some of our favorite annuals that can help you achieve your goal.

Dahlia: Nothing beats a dahlia for summer color. Growing these various colored, spiky flowers can be like having a box of garden crayons at your fingertips. These flowers bloom in mid to late summer and with several different colors. Pinch off the first budding of side flower to encourage larger flowers in peak season. These flowers will bloom until the fall and only stops at first frost, at this time you can dig them up and store them inside for the following year.

Elephant Ears: These big, dramatic, tropical-looking plants are grown for their bold foliage. Many have large triangular leaves that are leathery and uniquely textured. Elephant Ears enjoy the soft, watery soil around water gardens and also like to be grown indoors as house plants. The clumping foliage adds lush effects in the landscape and is especially effective in large containers. The plants sprout from large bulbous roots and achieve maximum growth in warm, humid, summer temperature.

Canna: These beautiful flowers bring tropical splendor to gardens in all regions.  They feature clustered, flag-like blooms in a brilliant array of colors on tall stems.  The Canna foliage is now even showier than the petals with varied leaf combinations of orange, yellow and greens that glow in the summer sun. These flowers can be taken inside during the fall and stored for the following year as well!

Allium:  These could be one of the most carefree bulbs you can grow! Alliums bloom in a wide range of colors, including shades of yellow, white, pink and purple. They bloom in different seasons and different sizes (from 1in wide flowers to flowers the size of volleyballs). They offer an unusual structure and great textural contrast to any garden. Make sure to plant alliums in well-drained soil in full sun during the summer or fall months.

Please let us know if you have any questions or would like to know more about a certain topic by commenting below. Enjoy!

Mushrooms in Your Lawn? Find Out Why!

After all the rain we have seen lately it is no surprise that mushrooms are popping up in yards. The most common reason why there are mushrooms in your yard is simply because we have had prolonged wet weather lately. There may also be a few more reasons why they have popped up in your yard as well. Mushrooms tend to develop from thatch, buried logs, dead roots, stumps or even construction debris. Now the question is, how do you get rid of them?

To begin, there is really no reason to get rid of these mushrooms, other than the fact that they don’t look very appealing. They are completely harmless to grasses, so unless they are bothering you, don’t worry about getting rid of them. Surprisingly, these mushrooms that people dislike so much are unique in their ability to recycle organic matter, thereby releasing nutrients that are then available for plant growth.

If they are bothering you enough to get rid of them, the best way is to simply control hydration if at all possible, keep irrigation turned off if this is the problem. The other action you can take is to remove them as you see them throughout the year. Continual removal will keep the appearance of your yard up to par, but the source of the lawn mushrooms will still be present, which means they will return. 

Once conditions dry up the mushrooms will begin to go away on their own with regular mowing.

If you have any questions or ideas for new posts please feel free to contact us by commenting on this blog, emailing us at info@snowandsons.com or writing on our Facebook wall!

Top 10 Benefits of a Healthy Lawn

1. A 50-foot by 50-foot lawn produces enough oxygen for a family of four.
2. Eight healthy front lawns have the cooling effect of 70 tons of air conditioning, which is enough for 16 average homes.
3. Dense, healthy grass slows water runoff, removing contaminants and trapping soil. Fresh, filtered water returns to the underground water supply.
4. A healthy lawn prevents erosion by water and/or wind and the loss of valuable top soil.
5. A lawn acts like a sponge and absorbs all types of airborne pollutants such as dust and carbon dioxide, as well as noise.
6. A healthy lawn makes for a more comfortable and safer place for children and adults both to play and enjoy.
7. Well maintained lawns and landscapes can add up to 15% to a property's value.
8. The investment recovery rate for a landscaping improvement is 100%-200% and for a deck or patio is 40%-70%.
9. In this tough housing market, a healthy lawn can make a home more marketable which can make or break a sale.
10. Finally, it creates a relaxing space of natural beauty that can be appreciated in different ways throughout the year.

Lawn Mowing- 5 Tips for Healthier Grass

    1.      When mowing avoid removal of more than 1/3 of the grass blade. Letting the lawn get long and then removing large portions of the leaf blades will add stress to the lawn and will decrease the rooting of the plant.

    2.      Make sure that you are always mowing with sharp blades. Mowing with dull blades will tear at the leaf blades instead of making a clean cut. This adds stress to the lawn and offers a path for diseases to enter the leaf blades. The need to sharpen your blades will depend on how often and for how long the mower is used. We sharpen our blades daily!

     3.      Whenever possible, mulching is beneficial for the grass instead of bagging it. By mulching, you are putting nutrients that are in the leaf blades back in to the soil.

     4.      Make sure that you mow at the correct height. The optimum height for most cool season grasses is 2.5-3.5 inches. During hot summer months it is advised to move the mowing heights up to help with drought and heat stress.

     5.      Alternate patterns when you can. On big open lawns you should alternate the pattern that you mow weekly. This will help with the overall cut and appearance of the lawn. 

Underground Bees: Who Are They?

Because we had an early dry spring it means we will have an increase in insects and pollen that will be coming out earlier and with extra strength.  For those of you with allergies you are probably already aware of the pollen increase this year compared to this time last year; and unfortunately it’s just the start! We will also be seeing more insects and also different types of insects that we normally wouldn’t see; like for instance the Mining Bee’s that many people have come across this season. 

These bee’s, also known as digger bees, nest in burrows in the ground wherever there is exposed soil and good drainage. Although they tend to resemble honey bees because of their similar size and colors, they are actually quite different. Unlike honey bees, mining bees are solitary and do not form large, socially organized nests, instead each mining bee female digs her own individual burrow to rear her own young. Even though they don’t live in the same nest, if the soil is good they will create numbers of nests near each other.

Mining bees tend to come out during early spring and this is why we aren’t used to seeing them because most years’ people aren’t outside working on their lawns this early. The great news is these bees are not aggressive and they seldom, if ever, sting. The best thing is to just leave them be but if you must be in the area where they have taken residence there are a few ways you may try to manage them. Since they don’t like wet conditions you can regularly water the ground in early spring to deter them from settling in the area. You may also want to try mulching the soil to keep moisture in, which will deter them from sticking around.

If you have any other questions about these bees or any more information you would like to share, feel free to comment on this blog or find us on Facebook and let us know!

Mulching - More is NOT Better

            It seems to be an annual rite of spring- applying a fresh layer of mulch to our gardens and landscape beds, but we must use caution so that we do not do more damage than good.

First we must remember what "mulch" is. Mulch is a generic term for any one of a variety of materials that is spread on the soil surface to aid in moisture retention, help weed growth suppression, and erosion reduction. These can be organic materials such as straw and wood chips or inorganic materials such as natural stone and crushed shells. 

            The most widely used mulches in landscaping are bark mulch and wood chips.  At initial planting or during renovation a 2-3” layer of fresh mulch should be applied over the bare soil.  Annually, a light layer should be used to add fresh color to the bed and replace the mulch that has decomposed and been removed throughout the year.  One of the big benefits for using bark mulch or wood chips in your landscape plantings in addition to the benefits mentioned above is that they do a great job in controlling temperature fluctuations. During hot summer months they keep the soil cool, while during colder months they keep it warmer.

            Make sure to never let the mulch build up to a thick layer. Without proper air flow, the mulch will damage the bark on the plant much like a Band-Aid left on skin too long.  Excessive mulch will also destroy shrubs and perennials as they begin to root into the mulch rather than the soil itself.

            We typically use bark mulch from local mills or our own double ground wood chips for landscape mulch.  After cutting a crisp new edge on the bed, a light layer of mulch is evenly distributed to highlight the plantings.

Crabgrass Control: 5 Tips to Success

Pre-emergent weed control plays a significant role in the overall health and appearance of your lawn. The most well-known and common weed a pre-emergent is used to control is crabgrass. Below are 5 tips to help you succeed in preventing crabgrass and other weeds from taking over your lawn.

1.   Product: There are several different products to choose from. The most important factor is to understand how these products work. They work by creating a barrier in the top layer of the soil that prevents seeds from germinating and establishing themselves. For this reason, if you are planning on seeding you cannot apply your typical pre-emergent product. If going out with a later application to prevent weeds, there are some products with post-emergent control on young crabgrass. 

2.   Timing: The overall timing of your application is 

      very important. If you apply too early you may lose control late in the summer months as the barrier begins to wear off. This is typically in August when you need that control the most. If you apply too late, the weeds have already begun to germinate and some control has been missed. 

3. Weather: The weather and ground temperatures play a significant role in weed germination. Crabgrass begins germination when ground temperatures reach 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit for 3-10 consecutive days. Other weeds have different germination temperatures. For this reason, you should know what you are trying to control and track the weather. 

4. Crabgrass Facts: It is important to understand that the best way to control crabgrass is by using a pre-emergent product. One single crabgrass plant can produce up to 150,000 seeds per year. These seeds can remain in the soil for very long periods of time. 

5. Lawn Condition: One of the best ways to keep crabgrass out of your lawn is to keep your lawn thick and healthy. This, in combination with a pre-emergent application, should help keep that crabgrass out of your beautiful lawn for the duration of the season. Lawn areas that are weak, thin, and exposed to high temperatures (along road and driveway edges) are going to be much more susceptible to crabgrass invasion, even when a pre-emergent is used.

By following these 5 tips, you will be that much closer to the beautiful lawn you have been dreaming of! If you have any questions or comments feel free to contact us at any time!

Lawn Dethatching: Do You Have A Thatch Problem?

Thatch is a tightly intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems and roots that accumulate just above the soil surface. A thin layer of this (less than ½ an inch) can be beneficial to the lawn because it helps to limit weed germination, reduce water evaporation, moderates soil temperature fluctuations, protects from frost damage and provides a cushion on the soil surface. However, too much thatch interferes with water and air movement, reduces fertilizer and pesticide response and increases disease and insect activity.

Thatch buildup can occur for many different reasons. Certain types of turf create much more thatch than others (i.e. Kentucky Bluegrass). Other factors such as fertilization, irrigation, microorganism activity, compaction and soil type can play significant roles in how thatch builds up.

In any case you can check to see the amount of thatch that your lawn has in three easy steps.

1.      Simply dig out a scoop of your lawn and look at it from the side (you will be able to put this piece back after this exercise, don’t worry!)

2.      You should be able to clearly identify the soil, the thatch (a tightly knit layer of brown debris) and the top growth of the lawn

3.      In a healthy lawn the thatch will decay naturally providing nutrients to the lawn, however if it looks like there is more than half an inch of thatch you will want to dethatch your lawn to make sure it stays healthy.

There are a few different ways you can decide to dethatch your lawn to make sure it stays healthy. The first way is to hand rake; however this may be difficult depending on the size of your lawn. Mechanical dethatchers such as vertical mowers or power rakes, typically work the best. If you have a thick thatch layer then a vertical mower is your best option. Practices such as power raking and aeration are great maintenance practices to help prevent your thatch layer from reaching excessive levels.

If you think that your lawn is at a point where dethatching with a vertical mower is necessary, there are a lot of important issues to consider. The timing, condition of the lawn (i.e. moisture levels) and how much of the thatch layer to remove are all very important. After you are done dethatching make sure you rake up all of the thatch you pulled up. This thatch can either be composted or disposed of, just don’t let it sit on the grass for very long!

If you have any questions about this blog or other landscape related questions please comment on this blog or on our Facebook wall at https://www.facebook.com/SnowandSonsLandscaping 

Celebrate Spring with Beautiful Bulbs

           

            There are many great reasons why bulbs are so popular in the garden but one of the biggest reasons is because they are so easy to care for! Since bulbs have a self-contained, highly developed food-storage mechanism that has adapted to life underground, bulbs don’t need much except water.  Even after lying dormant for months underground through the winter cold and the summer’s heat, they can spring back to life.

            Not only are these self-adapting flowers easy to care for they are colorful throughout the year. During almost the entire year different types of bulbs can be used in the garden from spring all the way until late November. Spring flowering bulb types are tulips, daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths and alliums, which should be planted 3-4 weeks before the frost is in the ground, they actually need the cold season to start their biological clock. Summer flowering bulb types are dahlias, begonias, lilies, gladiolas and callas, which should be planted late spring and will bloom a few months later.

            Most bulbs will even reappear for years to come! These bulbs are called perennials, which mean they will return several years in a row without being replanted. However, bulbous plants will not flower well again unless their leaves, which manufacture starch and sugars through photosynthesis, have time to replenish the depleted food supply of the bulb for the upcoming year. To replenish they create embryos for the next year’s flowers. This process continues for weeks after flowers die, that’s why the foliage should never be cut until it has yellowed.