Underground Bees: Who Are They?

Because we had an early dry spring it means we will have an increase in insects and pollen that will be coming out earlier and with extra strength.  For those of you with allergies you are probably already aware of the pollen increase this year compared to this time last year; and unfortunately it’s just the start! We will also be seeing more insects and also different types of insects that we normally wouldn’t see; like for instance the Mining Bee’s that many people have come across this season. 

These bee’s, also known as digger bees, nest in burrows in the ground wherever there is exposed soil and good drainage. Although they tend to resemble honey bees because of their similar size and colors, they are actually quite different. Unlike honey bees, mining bees are solitary and do not form large, socially organized nests, instead each mining bee female digs her own individual burrow to rear her own young. Even though they don’t live in the same nest, if the soil is good they will create numbers of nests near each other.

Mining bees tend to come out during early spring and this is why we aren’t used to seeing them because most years’ people aren’t outside working on their lawns this early. The great news is these bees are not aggressive and they seldom, if ever, sting. The best thing is to just leave them be but if you must be in the area where they have taken residence there are a few ways you may try to manage them. Since they don’t like wet conditions you can regularly water the ground in early spring to deter them from settling in the area. You may also want to try mulching the soil to keep moisture in, which will deter them from sticking around.

If you have any other questions about these bees or any more information you would like to share, feel free to comment on this blog or find us on Facebook and let us know!

Mulching - More is NOT Better

            It seems to be an annual rite of spring- applying a fresh layer of mulch to our gardens and landscape beds, but we must use caution so that we do not do more damage than good.

First we must remember what "mulch" is. Mulch is a generic term for any one of a variety of materials that is spread on the soil surface to aid in moisture retention, help weed growth suppression, and erosion reduction. These can be organic materials such as straw and wood chips or inorganic materials such as natural stone and crushed shells. 

            The most widely used mulches in landscaping are bark mulch and wood chips.  At initial planting or during renovation a 2-3” layer of fresh mulch should be applied over the bare soil.  Annually, a light layer should be used to add fresh color to the bed and replace the mulch that has decomposed and been removed throughout the year.  One of the big benefits for using bark mulch or wood chips in your landscape plantings in addition to the benefits mentioned above is that they do a great job in controlling temperature fluctuations. During hot summer months they keep the soil cool, while during colder months they keep it warmer.

            Make sure to never let the mulch build up to a thick layer. Without proper air flow, the mulch will damage the bark on the plant much like a Band-Aid left on skin too long.  Excessive mulch will also destroy shrubs and perennials as they begin to root into the mulch rather than the soil itself.

            We typically use bark mulch from local mills or our own double ground wood chips for landscape mulch.  After cutting a crisp new edge on the bed, a light layer of mulch is evenly distributed to highlight the plantings.

Crabgrass Control: 5 Tips to Success

Pre-emergent weed control plays a significant role in the overall health and appearance of your lawn. The most well-known and common weed a pre-emergent is used to control is crabgrass. Below are 5 tips to help you succeed in preventing crabgrass and other weeds from taking over your lawn.

1.   Product: There are several different products to choose from. The most important factor is to understand how these products work. They work by creating a barrier in the top layer of the soil that prevents seeds from germinating and establishing themselves. For this reason, if you are planning on seeding you cannot apply your typical pre-emergent product. If going out with a later application to prevent weeds, there are some products with post-emergent control on young crabgrass. 

2.   Timing: The overall timing of your application is 

      very important. If you apply too early you may lose control late in the summer months as the barrier begins to wear off. This is typically in August when you need that control the most. If you apply too late, the weeds have already begun to germinate and some control has been missed. 

3. Weather: The weather and ground temperatures play a significant role in weed germination. Crabgrass begins germination when ground temperatures reach 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit for 3-10 consecutive days. Other weeds have different germination temperatures. For this reason, you should know what you are trying to control and track the weather. 

4. Crabgrass Facts: It is important to understand that the best way to control crabgrass is by using a pre-emergent product. One single crabgrass plant can produce up to 150,000 seeds per year. These seeds can remain in the soil for very long periods of time. 

5. Lawn Condition: One of the best ways to keep crabgrass out of your lawn is to keep your lawn thick and healthy. This, in combination with a pre-emergent application, should help keep that crabgrass out of your beautiful lawn for the duration of the season. Lawn areas that are weak, thin, and exposed to high temperatures (along road and driveway edges) are going to be much more susceptible to crabgrass invasion, even when a pre-emergent is used.

By following these 5 tips, you will be that much closer to the beautiful lawn you have been dreaming of! If you have any questions or comments feel free to contact us at any time!

Lawn Dethatching: Do You Have A Thatch Problem?

Thatch is a tightly intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems and roots that accumulate just above the soil surface. A thin layer of this (less than ½ an inch) can be beneficial to the lawn because it helps to limit weed germination, reduce water evaporation, moderates soil temperature fluctuations, protects from frost damage and provides a cushion on the soil surface. However, too much thatch interferes with water and air movement, reduces fertilizer and pesticide response and increases disease and insect activity.

Thatch buildup can occur for many different reasons. Certain types of turf create much more thatch than others (i.e. Kentucky Bluegrass). Other factors such as fertilization, irrigation, microorganism activity, compaction and soil type can play significant roles in how thatch builds up.

In any case you can check to see the amount of thatch that your lawn has in three easy steps.

1.      Simply dig out a scoop of your lawn and look at it from the side (you will be able to put this piece back after this exercise, don’t worry!)

2.      You should be able to clearly identify the soil, the thatch (a tightly knit layer of brown debris) and the top growth of the lawn

3.      In a healthy lawn the thatch will decay naturally providing nutrients to the lawn, however if it looks like there is more than half an inch of thatch you will want to dethatch your lawn to make sure it stays healthy.

There are a few different ways you can decide to dethatch your lawn to make sure it stays healthy. The first way is to hand rake; however this may be difficult depending on the size of your lawn. Mechanical dethatchers such as vertical mowers or power rakes, typically work the best. If you have a thick thatch layer then a vertical mower is your best option. Practices such as power raking and aeration are great maintenance practices to help prevent your thatch layer from reaching excessive levels.

If you think that your lawn is at a point where dethatching with a vertical mower is necessary, there are a lot of important issues to consider. The timing, condition of the lawn (i.e. moisture levels) and how much of the thatch layer to remove are all very important. After you are done dethatching make sure you rake up all of the thatch you pulled up. This thatch can either be composted or disposed of, just don’t let it sit on the grass for very long!

If you have any questions about this blog or other landscape related questions please comment on this blog or on our Facebook wall at https://www.facebook.com/SnowandSonsLandscaping 

Celebrate Spring with Beautiful Bulbs

           

            There are many great reasons why bulbs are so popular in the garden but one of the biggest reasons is because they are so easy to care for! Since bulbs have a self-contained, highly developed food-storage mechanism that has adapted to life underground, bulbs don’t need much except water.  Even after lying dormant for months underground through the winter cold and the summer’s heat, they can spring back to life.

            Not only are these self-adapting flowers easy to care for they are colorful throughout the year. During almost the entire year different types of bulbs can be used in the garden from spring all the way until late November. Spring flowering bulb types are tulips, daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths and alliums, which should be planted 3-4 weeks before the frost is in the ground, they actually need the cold season to start their biological clock. Summer flowering bulb types are dahlias, begonias, lilies, gladiolas and callas, which should be planted late spring and will bloom a few months later.

            Most bulbs will even reappear for years to come! These bulbs are called perennials, which mean they will return several years in a row without being replanted. However, bulbous plants will not flower well again unless their leaves, which manufacture starch and sugars through photosynthesis, have time to replenish the depleted food supply of the bulb for the upcoming year. To replenish they create embryos for the next year’s flowers. This process continues for weeks after flowers die, that’s why the foliage should never be cut until it has yellowed.